Thursday, 23 May 2013

Attractions in Brynna



History in Dad’s Backyard: Attractions near the Village of Brynna

Today, Saturday, May 18, Dad, Uncle Martin, and my two cousins, Sam (13) and Emily (10) set out to visit St. Peter’s Church (known locally as “The old church”) on the top of Brynna Mountain.  Uncle Martin had “sussed out” a way to the church before we arrived, and was assured that a 2-mile hike beginning from the Griffon pub in Coed Ely would take us to our destination. 

But just before we drove to Coed Ely, we met up with one of my Dad’s old acquaintances, Mr. Morgan, who told us a better route to the old church: up past Perry’s to a little bungalow a local woman had built, through a gate and along the track beyond.  Nevertheless, with the promised 2-mile hike along a laneway sounding in our ears, we ignored Mr. Morgan’s advice (despite the fact that he’s in his 70s and had lived in Brynna all his life) and drove to Coed Ely, where we promptly stumbled uphill into a bog.  ;) 

Retracing our steps to the car, we drove over the commons—a steep track with extremely sharp corners—to the Brynna side, then went up Gelli fedi (pronounced “gechli veddy”) road,, past Perry’s, and along a bumpy road to the bungalow.  There, just visible about a mile away, were the ruins of the old church. 

The swinging gate that led to the field we would have to cross had a massive mud puddle on the other side, so while Dad, Uncle Martin, Emily and I inched around the fence posts, Sam held onto the gate and took a running start, then swung on the gate to pull it closed behind us (there were horses in the field, so we couldn’t leave it open).  At the far end of the horse field, we reached a small stream with a wobbly stepping stone in it; crossing this, and a couple of barbed-wire fences brought us to a rugged scramble up toward the windmills at the top of Brynna Mountain.  Once there, it was a short walk along a fence, a duck under a single strand of barbed-wire, and we were at the ruins.

The old church has stood in ruins above Brynna for many years.  It was built sometime in the thirteenth century as a parish church and as a way station for people journeying on pilgrimage (according to Mark Williams, a history teacher from Brynna village).  Legend also has it (as it does in a number of locations in the UK!) that this is the final resting place of King Arthur. 

If not King Arthur, it is the final resting place of a number of people, most of them from the Robert family.   




CMG and cousin Sam with the tombstone of Mary Robert, who died at age 29 in the year 1775.
 We took a break on the church wall and ate lunch before making our way—much more swiftly—back down the mountain to our car. 

A quick stop to pick up Aunty Dorothy and we were off again, this time to Tinkinswood Burial Chamber and St. Lythan’s Burial Chamber, located just off the A48. 

Tinkinswood Burial Chamber
 
Tinkinswood  is a Cotswold Severn style tomb, called such because many like it have been found along the Severn river.  It would have been built during the stone age by Neolithic man, approximately 6000 years ago.  Its massive capstone weighs as much as 5 double-decker buses, and would have taken 200 men pulling on ropes made of honeysuckle to tug it into place.  The remains of 50 people—men, women, and children—were found intermingled with the bones of livestock in the tomb’s cyst.  It has been suggested that the bodies may have been removed from the tomb at certain times or for certain ceremonies. 



St. Lythan’s Burial Chamber

St. Lythan’s is located only 2 miles from Tinkinswood and is also a Cotswold Severn style tomb.  Like Tinkinswood, it would have been built in the stone age by Neolithic man—about 6000 years ago.  St. Lythan’s is much smaller than Tinkinswood, with a capstone weighing only 35 tons.  Rumour has it that every Midsummer’s Eve this capstone flies off the mound and bathes in a nearby stream. 

Tomorrow, we say goodbye to our family in South Wales and head north to Gwynedd—the part of Wales in which the majority of my novel “The Harper’s Word” is set.  Check back soon!

Wednesday, 22 May 2013

Discovering Seventeenth-Century Life at Llancaiach Fawr



Discovering Seventeenth-Century Life at Llancaiach Fawr

On Friday, May 17, Dad and I left Somerset and drove along the M5/M4 toward South Wales, where he was born.  We stayed with my Great-Aunt Dorothy and my Uncle Martin for a few days.  On our way down, though, we stopped at Llancaiach Fawr.  Just off the M4, Llancaiach Fawr (pronounced Hlan-ky-ack vowr) is a seventeenth-century manner house that belonged to Lord Edward Prichard in the 1640s.  It is now a tourist attraction that gives visitors the opportunity to experience life during the English Civil War. 

In the visitors centre, we were given documents of introduction.  These were supposed to have been provided by the brother of Mary Prichard, the lady of the house, to assure her husband and his servants that the documents’ bearers were persons of good repute and trustworthy.  In a country torn by a civil war, where brother fought against brother, such papers were the only way of gaining entrance to a family home. 

Below Stairs
We presented our papers to Rachael, the under dairy maid, at the front door of the manner and she explained to us that her master and mistress were not at home, but that we would be welcome to explore the house on our own, or to be escorted through it by one of the servants.  We opted to be guided through, and Rachael took us down to the servants’ hall, so that we could “rid our minds” of the lower aspects of the house as soon as may be.  In the servants’ hall, she showed us the wooden trenchers the staff would have eaten from—heavy, squarish wooden plates with a large round indentation in the centre for porridge or stew, and a very small round indentation in the top corner for salt; musical instruments like a saltry (something like a dulcimer), a fiddle, and a drum whose Welsh name translates to “the pig’s nose.”  

We then proceeded to the kitchen, where we got to have a look at the huge fireplace with its rotating spit.  It would have been the spit boy’s job would be to turn the spit for up to 12 hours a day.  He would have worked in the house since he was about five—even though his mother might have worked in a different house—and would be paid 2 pence per day, plus food, and a place (under the table near the fire) to sleep.  On the table were a variety of herbs and spices that the family would have enjoyed, including cinnamon and nutmeg; some oyster shells for scooping, and a wooden mould for making gingerbread men and women. 

The Children’s Room
Rachael then escorted us upstairs and passed us off to the under cook, who showed us the room the Prichard girls’ shared.  Edward and Mary Prichard had two girls: Mary, who was about 3 when the war started, and Jane, who was 7.  The girls had a number of toys, including a bilboquet (a ball and cup toy), a hobby horse made out of maple, a rocking horse, and a hoop and stick game that was usually used by boys to practice swordplay.  The hoop would be tossed up, and the child has to thrust a stick through it.  There was also a Diablo, an hour-glass-shaped piece of wood that must be balanced and spun on a string held loosely between two sticks.

For educational purposes, the girls had hornbooks, which were similar to today’s board books: a piece of parchment with writing on it would be placed on a wooden plaque.  Then, a piece of cow horn would be heated and stretched until it was clear and tacked over the parchment to protect it from grubby fingers.  Edward Prichard’s children spoke Welsh and English from an early age, and were also being taught French and Italian.  The music master taught them singing, dancing, and to play the bowed saltry, which is similar to a modern violin.  Sewing clothes for their wooden dollies let the girls practice their stitching. 

The Indoor Toilet
In the short corridor joining the girls’ room to their mother’s a small bench with a lid.  When the lid is lifted, it exposes a 35-foot pit.  This is one of the earliest indoor toilets in Wales.

The Lady’s Chamber
Lady Prichard’s room is large and sunny, with a huge tester bed.  This looks a little like a four-poster bed, but there are actually only 2 posts at the foot of the bed, the headboard being a solid piece of wood.  The hangings and covers on the bed are all hand stitched and embroidered in beige, burgundy and dark green.  These would have taken 2 skilled seamstresses nearly 3 months to complete, and the entire bed would have cost 5 pounds.  This doesn’t sound like much today, but when you consider the under cook’s salary was 2 pounds 6 pence per year, you realize just how important a piece of furniture it was!  Lady Mary Prichard would have used her bedroom as a private parlour, and the bed was a way of showing her status to the visiting women.  Ladies would spin and sew and be entertained by the music master, whose job it was to provide music for the house as well as to educate the children. 

We were allowed to look through Lady Mary’s cosmetics.  In the seventeenth century it was fashionable to be very pale.  Lady marry would have worn a half-face mask  of soft leather as well as a large hat and veil if she went out in the sun.  She would also have powdered her face with white lead, which could be applied by a cloth puff, or by a hare’s foot.  She would have carried cloths soaked in scented oils to make herself smell nice, as well as to mask any unpleasant odours that might be floating on the air.  It was still believed that bad smells carried illness, and if you were able to mask the scent, you could stave off sickness.

Lady Prichard’s clothes were of the height of fashion, and even during the civil war she would have gowns sent over from France.  She wore her hair in the French style—in a large bun on the top or just to the back of her head, with ringlets coming down in front of her ears.  If her hair was not dressed, she would cover it with a coif—usually a white cloth.  All women of all classes wore coifs, but Lady Prichard’s was of the finest linen and trimmed in lace.

The Lord’s Study
Just down the hall from Lady Prichard’s room was her husband’s study.  Two stone walls in the centre of the room framed a narrow staircase that went down to the steward’s rooms; when the lord was away, it was the steward’s job to take care of estate business, so he had to have access.  This room is the only room in the house that has a window capable of being opened.  This is because Lord Prichard kept pigeons, whose nests could be reached through a panel in the wall.  These pigeons were used to send messages to the surrounding nobility, and would fly as far as Cardiff. 

The best part of this room was the weaponry.  If the house was ever attacked, all the men in the house would arm themselves with the equipment stored here.  We were shown a matchlock musket—which looks basically like a standard musket except for the striking mechanism.  Flintlocks, which came into prominence a little later in the century, use a piece of flint that snaps forward when the trigger is pulled, creating a spark when the flint strikes a steel plate; matchlocks, by contrast, have a long piece of rope that is kept lit, and which snaps back when the trigger is pulled, so that the flame touches the hole in the barrel and ignites the powder inside. 

I pressured Dad into trying on seventeenth-century armour—a backplate, breastplate, and helmet with gorget (a neck guard), and he was give the musket to hold.  The musket was taller than I am—though admittedly, I’m pretty short :P   I was then pressured into a seventeenth-century cavalry costume—a hugely heavy leather jacket that could stop a sword and even a musket ball (at long range), a “lobster tail helmet” (which has a neck guard like a lobster’s tail at the back), and then given a flintlock pistol and a sword to hold.  The cavalry men would guide their horses with their knees, fire their pistols as they charged, then rely on their swords.

The Great Hall
Finally, we joined a group of about 50 women from Pembroke in the great hall.  There, we were greeted by Evan James, the music master of Llancaiach Fawr.  He was very funny, and when the women from Pembroke heckled him, he had no problem heckling back.  He began by saying that he was glad my Dad was in the room, because it meant he wasn’t the only man.  Then he went on to say that many of the court cases that Edward Prichard heard in the great hall, as a justice of the peace, had to do with wives who heckled or nagged their husbands.  Punishment for this “crime” consisted of a metal scold’s bridle, which was fitted over the woman’s head, and a plate that was inserted into her mouth to press on her tongue and make it impossible for her to nag.  The husband would then be required to lead his wife around the town by the chain attached to the bridle.  If the same woman appeared before the court 3 times for nagging, a metal spike was added to the plate and pierced through her tongue.

One of the women present mentioned modern-day tongue rings, and Mr. James expressed both horror and fascination at the type of woman who “would so wilfully pierce herself so.”   ;)  He then went on to say that he was concerned about one of the women in the room, because of the way she was sitting: in the seventeenth century, crossing one’s legs was enough to suggest that one was a strumpet.  Needless to say, she uncrossed her legs!

After that, Dad and I made our way downstairs and out through the main door.  Llancaiach Fawr was a fortified country house and, as such, had only one way in and one way out.  The stairs were also made unevenly, so that those familiar with the steps could race up, but newcomers had to take the stairs slowly to avoid tripping.  We were bidden “God’s speed,” by Rachael, and left the seventeenth century to drive on to Brynna, a little village in the Vale of Glamorgan where my Dad was raised.

Friday, 17 May 2013

A Visit to the Museum of Somerset



School’s Out!
It’s been a while since I posted.  The last term of law school was insanely hectic, but it’s all done now, and I have the next year (minus the time I need to spend preparing for and then writing the licensing exam) to focus on my writing.  I began that year with a trip to the UK to research and visit a variety of sites that I use or have used in my historical fiction.  Dad came along and will be acting as driver, guide, reader, and photographer.

A Visit to the Museum of Somerset (Thursday, May 16th, 2013
Today, my Uncle Charlie’s friend, Mike, arranged for us to have a tour of the Museum of Somerset in Taunton.  The museum building was originally built as a Norman castle, and was used in the twelfth century civil war (between Stephen and Matilda).  It was then used by the local bishops, and later by the courts of assize (travelling courts).  It’s been a museum since 1870, and recently underwent three years of restoration.  If you’re ever in Taunton, I would highly recommend a visit.  It has a lot of hands-on exhibits, a number of audio stations, and some tactile games for the kids.  Best of all, it’s completely free.

In the Great Hall
We met up with Mary, who works at the museum, and were led into what was originally the great hall of the castle.  This space was full of early artefacts, ranging from ammonites the size of platters, to the only complete skeleton of a Plesiosaur, an early deep-sea predator that Mary described as looking like the Loch Ness monster.  There were also a handful of large bones from a dinosaur that seems to be unique to Somerset; it’s called Camelotia because it was found near the presumed location of Avalon—I’m serious!

At the far end of the hall, just below the balcony so you could look down on it from upstairs, was a Roman mosaic, depicting the story of Dido and Aeneas.  What makes this mosaic so special is the fact that it is almost completely intact.  Mary explained that one of Rome’s finest artists would likely have been brought to Somerset to make this for a wealthy Roman landowner.
A Roman mosaic depicting the story of Dido and Aeneas (Museum of Somerset, Taunton).

Settlement in Somerset
Next, we made our way upstairs, passing an earn that was found under the museum during restorations (it contained 52,503 Roman coins!), and made our way along the gallery, looking at the things early man had left behind: flint arrowheads; axes; ceramic bowls and beads; a piece of jade, which suggests there was trade between Somerset and Europe; and, perhaps most impressively, a wooden axe.  This last was likely made for a child—as a toy so the boy could copy his father—and was preserved only because of the amount of peat in Somerset, which prevents wooden objects from rotting away. 

In the Roman gallery, Mary showed us the museum’s collection of Roman broaches.  These were made of everything from bronze to Welsh gold, which was a lovely dark gold colour.  Then she brought us to a case that contained the bodies of a woman and her dog.  The woman was about five foot four, and the dog she was buried with was about the size of a golden retriever.  Mary said she felt very close to this woman, because she spent two days with one of the curators helping to lay her out properly in the case (originally, the woman’s torso and legs were laid out facing in different directions).  Apparently, it wasn’t common for people to be buried with their pets, so this grave was a curiosity, besides being touching.

The English Civil War and Monmouth’s Rebellion
Next, we moved on to my favourite part of the tour: The English Civil War gallery and the Rebellion Room.  Taunton changed hands a number of times during the English Civil War, moving from Royalist hands to parliamentarian control and back again.  Lord Edward Wyndham, a local land owner, was involved in a number of negotiations between the Royalists and Parliamentarians, and even managed to negotiate the surrender after the Siege of Dunster Castle, which was concluded without bloodshed.  Later in the day, I was able to handle a number of his letters at the Somerset Heritage Centre and Archives (again, thanks to Mike).  The most interesting artefact in this room was—believe it or not—a skillet.  I’m not big on historic cookware, but what made this interesting was the inscription on the handle: “C U B true to the King.”  Seventeenth-century text-speak. ;)

The Rebellion Room is dedicated to artefacts from the Monmouth Rebellion of 1685 (also called the Pitchfork Rebellion, since most of the rebels were farmers).  The supporters of James Scott, Duke of Monmouth, the illegitimate son of Charles II, were tried and executed by Judge Jefferies in the Bloody Assizes of 1685.  The Rebellion Room is the cell in which they were held while awaiting their sentences.  Written on the walls are some of their stories—one man, who was accused of firing the shot that warned the king’s men, was blamed by the women who came to visit other prisoners, though he protested until the day he was hanged that he had not fired the shot; a surgeon who was visiting Taunton when James Scott was declared king joined the pretender and was later transported; and a man who did not fight but whom had been seen shaking the hand of the Duke of Monmouth was tried for treason and executed.  “Sedgemoor,” the first story in my collection Beyond Reason, is an account of the final battle of the Monmouth Rebellion from a Royalist perspective. 

My favourite artefact in the Rebellion Room was a Royalist sword.  It was the story behind the sword that made it interesting: a royalist soldier had made “unwanted advances” to a young girl’s mother, so the girl took the soldier’s sword and killed him.  The royalists deemed the man’s behaviour dishonourable, and let the girl keep the sword as a souvenir, despite the fact that her family supported Monmouth. 

Thanks to Mike and Mary for arranging today, and to Dad and Uncle Charlie for struggling through seventeenth-century manuscripts at the heritage centre—messy handwriting and pre-standardized spelling makes for awkward reading!  Dad and I head to South Wales tomorrow to visit family.  I’ll post more about the trip when internet access becomes available.  Check back soon!